Thanks Dhrup.De.Scoop and Cash - I'll have a closer look at some of these sites.
Cash, - no - there is no register link. I think tried to login with my elgg login and failed? I thought there would be a demo site that auto refreshed every couple of hours - like at opensourcecms.com
Make sure you are not going to demo.elgg.com (which I think is a closed beta) but demo.elgg.org. There is a register link there.
The demo at elgg.org auto-refreshes once a week, but is very bare bones and doesn't provide admin access. I don't know why.
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